High level walks in the Lake District
The high tops of the Lake District have always excited the imagination of walkers though perhaps too much emphasis has been placed on the very highest. Although Helvellyn is probably the most visited, the other three-thousanders (Scafell Pike, the highest land in England; it near neighbour Scafell; and Skiddaw) are not far behind, and a select few of the other fells are almost as popular. In this group can be included Great Gable, symbol of the National Park, the magnificent Blencathra, and the Langdale Pikes.
Yet there are other Lakeland mountains which, though they are more modest in stature, have compensating attractions for the more discerning walker: impressive mountain scenery, superlative views (often far better than those from the highest levels) and, perhaps best of all, the opportunity for quiet enjoyment when the honeypot peaks are thronged with visitors. In this chapter it is only possible to introduce a selection of the best walks in high fell country, some very well known and others of such quality that they deserve to become so.
Mardale Head and Patterdale
In the eastern Lake District there are two places in particular to head for, namely Mardale Head and Patterdale. Mardale is of course a drowned valley, its focal point of Mardale Green lost beneath the waters of Haweswater since the 1930s, but the dalehead is the starting point for the best walks in the High Street range.
From Mardale Head probably the most popular walk is the ascent of High Street via the craggy and at times narrow ridge of Long Stile, but there are other routes worthy of consideration. The best, perhaps, takes in Harter Fell, Mardale III Bell and Kidsty Pike in addition to High Street, and descends into the ghostly valley of Riggindale.
From Mardale Head, where there is limited parking, the way initially lies along the former packhorse trail making for the Gatescarth Pass; at the pass, a rather boggy area overlooking the seldom visited valley of Mosedale, a well worn path strikes up the slopes of Harter Fell,climbing comfortably to reach the rocky summit plateau, its highest point marked by a cairn now adorned with the twisted remains of the iron fence which once traversed the area. From here there is an awesome panorama into the heart of Lakeland, across the High Street plateau to Helvellyn, the central fells and, in the blue distance, the Scafell range.
Mardale III Bell is the next objective, easily reached via the Nan Bield Pass, where another packhorse route comes up steeply on its way from Kentmere past the delightful tarn of Small Water, where there are some unusual low shelters, to Mardale Head. Keep tQ the right on the way up the slopes of Mardale III Bell to enjoy the best of the views, both down the valley past Small Water and Haweswater to the Pennines and also across the bleak upland tarn of Blea Water, the deepest tarn in the district, into the heart of the High Street range.
Once the summit of Mardale III Bell has been reached the way forward becomes much less rocky, and a vast sheepwalk has to be traversed on the way to High Street, at 828m (2, 718ft) the highest point in the ridge which bears its name. So flat and grassy is the area that it also bears the name of Racecourse Hill, and the annual Mardale shepherds' meet and fair day was held up here until 1835.
Hotels Lake District
If you are looking to stay close to the main attractions of the Lake District, or a little further afield, you can find a range of Lake District hotels to suit all budgets. Wherever you choose to stay in the lakes, you will be close to some superb hotels, cottages, guesthouses and campsites to ensure your stay is a comfortable one.
The Straits of Riggindale
Northwards from High Street's summit the ridge narrows dramatically at the Straits of Riggindale, where the walkers' path and former Roman road converge. To the left is the deep Hayeswater valley, to the right the deep bowl of Riggindale, a classic example of a Ushaped glaciated valley, while straight ahead the High Street ridge, going on towards High Raise, throws off a subsidiary spur to The Knott and Rest Dodd.
Our route lies to the right, leaving the main High Street ridge and climbing gently to the summit of Kidsty Pike, perched above the steep and rocky northern side of Riggindale. The eastern spur of Kidsty Pike is then descended to the shores of Haweswater, and the final stage of the walk consists of a gentle stroll around the head of the lake, passing the site of the former Riggindale Farm and rounding The Rigg, the wooded spur at the foot of Long Stile, on the way to Mardale Head.
Patterdale and Helvellyn
Patterdale is much better known than Mardale, and is wonderfully situated at the head of Ullswater, surrounded by fine mountains, from Place Fell and St Sunday Crag round to Helvellyn. The classic Helvellyn route, up Striding Edge and down Swirral Edge, begins here.
After an easy tramp across the Grisedale fellside the walker encounters Striding Edge, best known though perhaps not quite the best of Lakeland's aretes. This very narrow ridge between Nethermost Cove and Red Tarn Cove the latter with Red Tarn itself, the only tarn stocked with the rare schelly and backed by a tremendous cliff reaching right up to the summit plateau of Helvellyn itself is a popular though easily underestimated route, with plenty of opportunity for rock scrambling and a real feeling of achievement when the main Helvellyn ridge is reached. Now there is a straightforward walk to the summit of Helvellyn, at 950m (3, 118ft) the second highest in the Lake District, with its clutter of cairns, shelters and monuments.
The way down Swirral Edge, on bare rock to begin with, is highly attractive and not too difficult, with Red Tarn sparkling in its icedeepened hollow far below. A path heading for the tarn leaves the ridge but it is preferable to keep to the heights as far as the top of Catstycam, a pyramid peak at the end of the ridge.
The northern face of Catstycam falls away in a tumbling mass of shattered rock and scree to the corrie which used to contain Keppelcove Tarn (a former reservoir for the Greenside lead mine, this has been dry since 1927, when it broke its banks in a storm), but the return to Patterdale descends the east shoulder of the fell and joins the Red Tarn path down to the Glenridding Beck and past the buildings of the Greenside mine.
The beck here flows through delightful ravines, with rowans clinging tenaciously to rock faces which fall sheer into the clear water. Beyond the mine a level path diverges from the beck to reach Miresbeck, the slopes of Keldas (a good viewpoint for Ullswater), the secret Lanty's Tarn, and the lane alongside Grisedale Beck into Patterdale.
Fairfield horseshoe walk
A very good introduction to the eastern fells, this is a popular and not too difficult walk which is also highly accessible, starting in the old part of Ambleside with a lovely walk to High Sweden Bridge. As the walled lane rises above the town the views open out, taking in the length of Windermere to the south and the Rydal valley, backed by the Langdale Pikes., to the west.
Closer at hand the lane passes through little woods and runs alongside the Scandale Beck before crossing it on the highly photogenic single-arched High Sweden Bridge. A stiff pull up the fellside now leads to the summits of Low Pike and, not too far distant, its bigger brother High Pike. The way to the next objective, Dove Crag, lies close to the head of the tremendous side valley of Dove dale, a wild trench ringed with magnificent crags. This is real mountain country, rocky and desolate, and the route now takes in a highlevel traverse of Hart Crag on the way past the head of Deepdale to the summit of Fairfield.
The great glory of Fairfield is its northern face, with projecting buttresses falling dramatically into Deepdale, so it is worth diverting along the subsidiary ridge to Cofa Pike in order to obtain the best views. Down below, to the west, lies Grisedale Tarn, a wellknown staging High Sweden Bridge, a classic packhorse bridge across Scandale Beck on the path from Ambleside to Low Pike and the Fairfield Horseshoe post on the old packhorse route from Grasmere to Patterdale, while to the north are the flanks of Dollywaggon Pike, the first of the outliers of Helvellyn.
There are excellent views not only of the tremendous Helvellyn massif but also of Place Fell and the far eastern fells around High Street. The Fairfield Horseshoe turns south, however, along the top of Fairfield Brow to Greatrigg Man and then easily down the ridge on a carpet of grass to Heron Pike, Nab Scar (which still has the remains of a medieval deer park boundary) and Rydal, before returning at valley level through Rydal Park to Ambleside.
Blencathra and Skiddaw walks
It is not by mistake that Blencathra is listed before Skiddaw, despite its lesser height; in terms of interest and quality of walking there is no real comparison between the two. Skiddaw has generally smooth slopes and relatively few points of high drama though the sight of the central fells from Skiddaw Little Man is memorable, and the cascading Whitewater Dash to the left of Dead Crags is a gem known to too few.
Blencathra has not only its dramatically serrated southern face, with a succession of ridges the best of them Hall's Fell, narrowing to the arete of Narrow Edge in its upper reaches and intervening ravines, but also the even narrower knife-edged ridge of Sharp Edge, perched alluringly above the supposedly bottomless Scales Tarn.
The best way to the base of Hall's Fell cuts diagonally through fields from Threlkeld, passing a substantial field barn on the way to Gategill, site of a former mining venture and now the place where the Blencathra foxhounds are kennelled. A path climbs beside Gate Gill to the fell gate and a view of some of the derelict mine buildings. Now the climb up Hall's Fell begins, steeply at first on exposed slaty rock but later more steadily through heather to reach Narrow Edge.
A narrow path runs along the right hand side of the arete, a little below the crest, but even this is rocky and a little exposed, with dramatic views down into the depths of Doddick Gill. The more adventurous will elect for the sensational scrambling route along the crest itself, with Gate Gill steeply down to the left and the summit of Blencathra itself in sight at the top of the arete. Once the slabs, miniature rock towers and little crags have been conquered the summit, beautifully poised at the edge of the abyss, is gained by a final scramble up loose rock. John Ruskin may have come this way: he included 'several bits of real crag work' in his ascent of the mountain.
Sharp Edge walks
Probably the finest conclusion to such a walk is a descent along Sharp Edge, with Scales Tarn poised below, but many might feel that Narrow Edge is exertion enough and will opt to descend Blue Screes to reach the col at the head of the Glenderamackin valley. Turn right here and accompany the infant stream, here at the start of its extraordinary journey to Mungrisdale and then sharply round Souther Fell to the far side of Blencathra. There is a very good, well graded and pleasantly surfaced path all the way down to Mungrisdale, though in order to get back to Threlkeld it is necessary to leave this and climb up to the col at the head of Mousthwaite Comb before curving round to Scales and, by paths at the base of the south face, Threlkeld.
Yet there are other Lakeland mountains which, though they are more modest in stature, have compensating attractions for the more discerning walker: impressive mountain scenery, superlative views (often far better than those from the highest levels) and, perhaps best of all, the opportunity for quiet enjoyment when the honeypot peaks are thronged with visitors. In this chapter it is only possible to introduce a selection of the best walks in high fell country, some very well known and others of such quality that they deserve to become so.
Mardale Head and Patterdale
In the eastern Lake District there are two places in particular to head for, namely Mardale Head and Patterdale. Mardale is of course a drowned valley, its focal point of Mardale Green lost beneath the waters of Haweswater since the 1930s, but the dalehead is the starting point for the best walks in the High Street range.
From Mardale Head probably the most popular walk is the ascent of High Street via the craggy and at times narrow ridge of Long Stile, but there are other routes worthy of consideration. The best, perhaps, takes in Harter Fell, Mardale III Bell and Kidsty Pike in addition to High Street, and descends into the ghostly valley of Riggindale.
From Mardale Head, where there is limited parking, the way initially lies along the former packhorse trail making for the Gatescarth Pass; at the pass, a rather boggy area overlooking the seldom visited valley of Mosedale, a well worn path strikes up the slopes of Harter Fell,climbing comfortably to reach the rocky summit plateau, its highest point marked by a cairn now adorned with the twisted remains of the iron fence which once traversed the area. From here there is an awesome panorama into the heart of Lakeland, across the High Street plateau to Helvellyn, the central fells and, in the blue distance, the Scafell range.
Mardale III Bell is the next objective, easily reached via the Nan Bield Pass, where another packhorse route comes up steeply on its way from Kentmere past the delightful tarn of Small Water, where there are some unusual low shelters, to Mardale Head. Keep tQ the right on the way up the slopes of Mardale III Bell to enjoy the best of the views, both down the valley past Small Water and Haweswater to the Pennines and also across the bleak upland tarn of Blea Water, the deepest tarn in the district, into the heart of the High Street range.
Once the summit of Mardale III Bell has been reached the way forward becomes much less rocky, and a vast sheepwalk has to be traversed on the way to High Street, at 828m (2, 718ft) the highest point in the ridge which bears its name. So flat and grassy is the area that it also bears the name of Racecourse Hill, and the annual Mardale shepherds' meet and fair day was held up here until 1835.
Hotels Lake District
If you are looking to stay close to the main attractions of the Lake District, or a little further afield, you can find a range of Lake District hotels to suit all budgets. Wherever you choose to stay in the lakes, you will be close to some superb hotels, cottages, guesthouses and campsites to ensure your stay is a comfortable one.
The Straits of Riggindale
Northwards from High Street's summit the ridge narrows dramatically at the Straits of Riggindale, where the walkers' path and former Roman road converge. To the left is the deep Hayeswater valley, to the right the deep bowl of Riggindale, a classic example of a Ushaped glaciated valley, while straight ahead the High Street ridge, going on towards High Raise, throws off a subsidiary spur to The Knott and Rest Dodd.
Our route lies to the right, leaving the main High Street ridge and climbing gently to the summit of Kidsty Pike, perched above the steep and rocky northern side of Riggindale. The eastern spur of Kidsty Pike is then descended to the shores of Haweswater, and the final stage of the walk consists of a gentle stroll around the head of the lake, passing the site of the former Riggindale Farm and rounding The Rigg, the wooded spur at the foot of Long Stile, on the way to Mardale Head.
Patterdale and Helvellyn
Patterdale is much better known than Mardale, and is wonderfully situated at the head of Ullswater, surrounded by fine mountains, from Place Fell and St Sunday Crag round to Helvellyn. The classic Helvellyn route, up Striding Edge and down Swirral Edge, begins here.
After an easy tramp across the Grisedale fellside the walker encounters Striding Edge, best known though perhaps not quite the best of Lakeland's aretes. This very narrow ridge between Nethermost Cove and Red Tarn Cove the latter with Red Tarn itself, the only tarn stocked with the rare schelly and backed by a tremendous cliff reaching right up to the summit plateau of Helvellyn itself is a popular though easily underestimated route, with plenty of opportunity for rock scrambling and a real feeling of achievement when the main Helvellyn ridge is reached. Now there is a straightforward walk to the summit of Helvellyn, at 950m (3, 118ft) the second highest in the Lake District, with its clutter of cairns, shelters and monuments.
The way down Swirral Edge, on bare rock to begin with, is highly attractive and not too difficult, with Red Tarn sparkling in its icedeepened hollow far below. A path heading for the tarn leaves the ridge but it is preferable to keep to the heights as far as the top of Catstycam, a pyramid peak at the end of the ridge.
The northern face of Catstycam falls away in a tumbling mass of shattered rock and scree to the corrie which used to contain Keppelcove Tarn (a former reservoir for the Greenside lead mine, this has been dry since 1927, when it broke its banks in a storm), but the return to Patterdale descends the east shoulder of the fell and joins the Red Tarn path down to the Glenridding Beck and past the buildings of the Greenside mine.
The beck here flows through delightful ravines, with rowans clinging tenaciously to rock faces which fall sheer into the clear water. Beyond the mine a level path diverges from the beck to reach Miresbeck, the slopes of Keldas (a good viewpoint for Ullswater), the secret Lanty's Tarn, and the lane alongside Grisedale Beck into Patterdale.
Fairfield horseshoe walk
A very good introduction to the eastern fells, this is a popular and not too difficult walk which is also highly accessible, starting in the old part of Ambleside with a lovely walk to High Sweden Bridge. As the walled lane rises above the town the views open out, taking in the length of Windermere to the south and the Rydal valley, backed by the Langdale Pikes., to the west.
Closer at hand the lane passes through little woods and runs alongside the Scandale Beck before crossing it on the highly photogenic single-arched High Sweden Bridge. A stiff pull up the fellside now leads to the summits of Low Pike and, not too far distant, its bigger brother High Pike. The way to the next objective, Dove Crag, lies close to the head of the tremendous side valley of Dove dale, a wild trench ringed with magnificent crags. This is real mountain country, rocky and desolate, and the route now takes in a highlevel traverse of Hart Crag on the way past the head of Deepdale to the summit of Fairfield.
The great glory of Fairfield is its northern face, with projecting buttresses falling dramatically into Deepdale, so it is worth diverting along the subsidiary ridge to Cofa Pike in order to obtain the best views. Down below, to the west, lies Grisedale Tarn, a wellknown staging High Sweden Bridge, a classic packhorse bridge across Scandale Beck on the path from Ambleside to Low Pike and the Fairfield Horseshoe post on the old packhorse route from Grasmere to Patterdale, while to the north are the flanks of Dollywaggon Pike, the first of the outliers of Helvellyn.
There are excellent views not only of the tremendous Helvellyn massif but also of Place Fell and the far eastern fells around High Street. The Fairfield Horseshoe turns south, however, along the top of Fairfield Brow to Greatrigg Man and then easily down the ridge on a carpet of grass to Heron Pike, Nab Scar (which still has the remains of a medieval deer park boundary) and Rydal, before returning at valley level through Rydal Park to Ambleside.
Blencathra and Skiddaw walks
It is not by mistake that Blencathra is listed before Skiddaw, despite its lesser height; in terms of interest and quality of walking there is no real comparison between the two. Skiddaw has generally smooth slopes and relatively few points of high drama though the sight of the central fells from Skiddaw Little Man is memorable, and the cascading Whitewater Dash to the left of Dead Crags is a gem known to too few.
Blencathra has not only its dramatically serrated southern face, with a succession of ridges the best of them Hall's Fell, narrowing to the arete of Narrow Edge in its upper reaches and intervening ravines, but also the even narrower knife-edged ridge of Sharp Edge, perched alluringly above the supposedly bottomless Scales Tarn.
The best way to the base of Hall's Fell cuts diagonally through fields from Threlkeld, passing a substantial field barn on the way to Gategill, site of a former mining venture and now the place where the Blencathra foxhounds are kennelled. A path climbs beside Gate Gill to the fell gate and a view of some of the derelict mine buildings. Now the climb up Hall's Fell begins, steeply at first on exposed slaty rock but later more steadily through heather to reach Narrow Edge.
A narrow path runs along the right hand side of the arete, a little below the crest, but even this is rocky and a little exposed, with dramatic views down into the depths of Doddick Gill. The more adventurous will elect for the sensational scrambling route along the crest itself, with Gate Gill steeply down to the left and the summit of Blencathra itself in sight at the top of the arete. Once the slabs, miniature rock towers and little crags have been conquered the summit, beautifully poised at the edge of the abyss, is gained by a final scramble up loose rock. John Ruskin may have come this way: he included 'several bits of real crag work' in his ascent of the mountain.
Sharp Edge walks
Probably the finest conclusion to such a walk is a descent along Sharp Edge, with Scales Tarn poised below, but many might feel that Narrow Edge is exertion enough and will opt to descend Blue Screes to reach the col at the head of the Glenderamackin valley. Turn right here and accompany the infant stream, here at the start of its extraordinary journey to Mungrisdale and then sharply round Souther Fell to the far side of Blencathra. There is a very good, well graded and pleasantly surfaced path all the way down to Mungrisdale, though in order to get back to Threlkeld it is necessary to leave this and climb up to the col at the head of Mousthwaite Comb before curving round to Scales and, by paths at the base of the south face, Threlkeld.
Labels: Sharp Edge walks
posted by Windermere Boutique Hotels | 02:23
1 Comments:
Great read! I can't forget how beautiful Lake District is and how fulfilling it is to conquer a peak when you walk. One of my stays in one of the Ambleside hotels involved me walking a trail to Lowpike and the scenery is just stunning. I wish I can go back.
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